帖子主题: 河内人面果季节的风情  

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发表于:Thu Jul 04 12:07:18 CST 2013
(VOVworld) - 作为一座中心大城市,河内时时刻刻都在运转着,发展着,热闹而忙碌。但河内也有宁静的时刻。比如漫步在潘廷逢、陈富、陈兴道等街道的一行行人面果树下,或中午坐在甜品摊上,喝一杯人面果糖水。人面果树何时开始出现在这座城市已无人知晓,人们只知道它已成为河内街上一道美丽的风景线,越南美食大观园中的一朵奇葩。 当白色百合花随着卖花嫂走进河内大街小巷,正是人面果树开始落叶的时候。片片树叶从高高的树上,随风飘落地,在灿烂的阳光下,仿佛给人行道铺上了厚厚一张带着清香的黄地毯。走在这金灿灿的路上,人们不由得慢下了脚步,顿时发现河内的人面果季节来了。对很多土生土长的老河内来说,人面果树伴随着他们走过了童年。现年80多岁,家住潘廷逢街的阮涉大爷告诉记者,他也不知道街上这些人面果树是何时栽下的。只知道小时候,每次下课,他都和同学爬树摘果。小小的人面果可放进书包里,当小零食,或回家给妈妈煮酸汤。在南方战场作战期间,童年的这些温馨回忆一直温暖着他的心房。 阮涉大爷说:“说到河内,一定要说人面果树。其他树也有,但如果不提人面果树是不行的。无论走到哪里,只要看到一棵高大的人面果树,我就想到河内。”
当年的幼树如今已长得粗壮、茂密、树荫遮住整个人行道了。夏季的下午,阮涉大爷带着孙子到人面果树下乘凉玩耍。他希望这些孩子的童年也有关于它们的美好回忆。 阮涉的孙子阮煌军一边眯着眼睛透过绿叶看着树上的果实,一边天真地对我们说:“下午,我常跟爷爷和妹妹到这里拣人面果,我觉得用人面果煮酸汤很好吃。学校里也有人面果,我们还拿着玩儿呢。”
看着小朋友活蹦乱跳地在人行道上拣人面果放进车篮,看着阮大爷每次回忆起往事时岁月留痕的脸上总是露出和善的笑容,突然发现,这座千年古城的一排排人面果树好像没有了年龄。因为很简单,对于河内人来说,无论是老人,还是小孩,其记忆中都有着人面果树的影子。每年夏天,走在树下,闻到淡淡的花香,夏夜里听到人面果掉地的声音,他们心中不由得泛起涟漪。
河内人温文尔雅,其饮食自然也很精致。嫩嫩的人面果去皮后,泡在糖水里,加上一点姜丝或捣碎的姜末。夏季中午,喝上一杯酸酸甜甜、带着淡淡的果味和姜味的人面果糖水,酷暑的炎热顿时消去了不少。当人面果熟透时,人们便削成非常好看的螺旋状,放上少许糖、盐和辣椒粉拌匀,做成浸人面果。吃进嘴里,这道普通的风味小零食那酸甜辣咸混合而成的味道和香香脆脆的口感,足以让人一尝难忘。
从街道上的普通果实,经河内主妇灵巧的双手,人面果摇身变成了可口的零食,更成为了河内人送给亲朋友好的佳品。李国师、唐行等街道上那些卖人面果蜜饯的著名老店早已为游客所熟悉。
专售人面果零食和蜜饯的黎氏明告诉我们:“年轻人多喜欢酸甜辣咸的浸人面果,中年人则喜欢蜜饯。很多人带到胡志明市,甚至国外送人。到胡志明市的一般带浸人面果和人面果糖水。移居胡志明市的北方人更是酷爱这些东西。”
小小的人面果承载着夏日的阳光、雨水与河内人童年的回忆。尽管再普通不过了,但它依然能勾起河内游子的思乡之情,并温暖着无数一直生活在这座千年古城人们的心。
 

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发表于:2018-04-12 09:38:54
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